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Here is how your horns are imagined to be. The electronic timer switch b&q primary diagram is the 64 1/2 horns, which have a horn relay and just one wire for a contact within the turn signal switch. I am going to speak about those in a later post. Right now you possibly can only see a part of the wiring diagrams, but, in case you click on one in all them, the rest of it would show up. The rest of that is post is for the 65/66 cars that have an alternator instead of a generator.
The first picture is the wiring of everything horn-related that isn’t right behind the steering wheel. The last picture is a brand new turn signal switch. This one is the switch for a 68. I used it because the one new switches that I could easily find were all 68s, but the part concerning the horns is similar as a 65/66. The arrows are pointing to the horn contacts in the switch. The one with the yellow arrow is the one supplying power to the horns and the one with the blue arrow is the one that takes the facility from the switch out to the horns themselves. The third picture is the back of a steering wheel. That is an 85 crown vic steering wheel, but, again, the horn stuff is identical. One of many horn contacts on the turn signal switch is making contact with one of the copper rings on the steering wheel, and the other horn contact touches the opposite ring. On the front of the steering wheel, with the three-legged horn button removed, you will notice a bit of metal ‘finger’ sticking out. That’s in touch with one of many copper rings on the back of the steering wheel on the back and is in contact with the metal ring on the three-legged horn button. You will also see two contacts, each fabricated from white plastic with just a little copper contact on the front of the steering wheel, held onto the wheel with a screw. In this picture of the back of the three-legged horn button I have circled two contacts on it. Once you push on the horn button, that causes one, or both, of the contacts on the horn button to touch the contacts on the steering wheel, completing the circuit and causing the horns to honk.
It’s a quite common problem for the contacts on either the steering wheel or the horn button to be worn down enough to either make very poor contact or no contact at all. To get your horns to work, first check and see if the horns themselves work by removing one, grounding the mounting bracket on the negative battery post and supply power to the connector on the horn with a wire from the positive battery post. If the horns work, check along with your volt meter to see if power is getting to the horn end of the wire that is alleged to be supplying power to the horn with the button pushed. If yes, then the horns aren’t making good contact with the radiator core support due to excess paint or something. If no power is getting there with the horn button pushed, you may have to remove the horn button by pressing and turning the horn button counter-clockwise and it will pop off of the steering wheel. Take a bit of wire or the trusty screwdriver or something and ground one of many contacts on the steering wheel to that little finger sticking out. If that makes the horns honk, the problem is the contacts on the back of the horn button. If no, then it’s a must to remove the steering wheel. Once you have accomplished that, take the screwdriver and and ground one of the contacts on the turn signal switch to the other one and see if the horns honk. If yes, then the steering wheel was not making contact with the turn signal switch contacts and once you reinstall the steering wheel, you could be sure that it gets pulled down far enough to make contact by checking to see if the horns honk by grounding one of the contacts on the front of the steering wheel to that little finger. If no, then the yellow wire probably isn’t supplying power to the system in any respect and that you must first check if the yellow wire is bringing power from the headlight switch. If yes, you may be needing a new turn signal switch.
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