Press "Enter" to skip to content

touch on switch,simple touch switch circuit diagram

admin 0

what is a 2 gang light switch, touch on switch,wall light|bedside touch lamp|reading light for bed|floor reading lamps|touch lamps,

To install To install Electrical Wiring

Wireless Touch Switch White 1 Gang 1 way Touch Panel SwitchThe following pointers the following pointers and directions for adding new electrical wiring. Take a couple of minutes to read the directions thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you effort and time and ensure a safe installation.

Before beginning any electrical repair, shut off the power. Remove the fuse or trip the touch on switch breaker for the circuit you may be working on in your service panel. Use a neon tester to make certain the facility is off. If there’s any doubt, you may remove the primary fuse or trip the primary breaker. Remember: Removing the primary fuse or tripping the principle breaker will usually shut off the ability to your complete house.
Electrical wires are color coded to prevent wiring errors. White wires almost always connect to other white wires or to chrome terminal screws on switches and receptacles. Some wiring devices–such as receptacles–are back-wired by pushing the bare wire end into spring grip holes. These wiring devices are plainly labeled to indicate touch on switch which color goes into each spring grip hole. Switches are nearly always connected into black wires in cables. The one exception is where a cable is extended, making it necessary for the white wire to play the role of the black wire. When this is critical, the white wires needs to be painted black to stop future wiring errors. Study the wiring diagram. It will enable you to understand the basic principles of excellent wiring. Also, find a very good electrical how-to book. It is one book every homeowner should keep available for ready reference. Most home wiring is complete with either No. 14 gauge or No. 12 gauge wiring. No. 14 is the smallest wiring permitted under most codes. Always use the identical size cable for a continuation of any extended wiring circuit.

New wiring should be connected to the last outlet in a run of cable. To locate the last outlet within the run, shut off the current. Remove the cover plates from each outlet on the circuit. The last outlet in the run has wires connected to only two of the four terminal screws. The two unused terminal screws on the last receptacle serve as a place to begin for wiring to a new outlet.

Shut off the ability to the circuit you can be engaged on at the service panel. Loosen the screws holding the receptacle in the box and take away it, as shown. Attach the the earth wire (the bare or green) to the chrome terminal. The yellow (or green in some instances) wire must be connected to the receptacle and the box maintaining the equipotential bonding on the earth system. The earth wires should only be connected to the proper screw terminals on the recepticle to the brass terminal on the receptacle and to the box, if the box is metal. Use care to match the dimensions of the original cable. If No. 12 wire is used, continue with No. 12. If No. 14 wire is used, use No. 14 for continuing the cable. The dimensions of the cable is usually stamped on the side of the cable. New wiring may be connected to continue the run beyond the last receptacle. Note that the brand new wires are pulled through knockout plugs within the back of the outlet box.

New wiring can be tied into a junction box, unless the wiring in the junction box is already at maximum capacity. Before tying in at a junction box, always trace the cables resulting in the box to check the voltage. Make sure you aren’t connecting a 120-volt outlet to a run of wire providing 240 volts for larger appliances. To tie in new wiring at a junction box, first shut off the current on the service panel. Locate the primary supply cable coming into the junction box from the service panel. Locate the availability wire by tracing the white wires. All white wires within the junction box shall be attached to the white wire on the availability line. Knock out the unused plug on the junction box and run the new line from the box as illustrated. Make certain to use a cable clamp to secure the cable to the junction box.

You possibly can tie in new wiring at a ceiling light if the light isn’t controlled by a switch. Shut off the present at the service panel. Tie white wires to white wires and black wires to black wires, as illustrated. Connect the ground wires as illustrated. If you’re using a metal box, attach them to the box in addition to the light fixture. Knock out an opening in the outlet box, and continue the new wiring as illustrated.

Some boxes include built-in connectors. Armored cable connectors have inner rims to hold fiber bushings at the tip of the cable. Nonmetallic cable connectors are designed to grip the installation around the cable with a two-screw clamp. Regardless of the kind of cable used, always leave about 6″ to eight” of wiring within the box to allow loads of wire for making easy connections. You’ll be able to tighten the nut on either type of cable connector by placing a screwdriver within the notch and tapping the screwdriver lightly.

Always do not forget that connections have to be made in an approved box. Never connect one cable to a different by an open-line splice. All switch, outlet, and junction boxes have to be positioned so they’re always accessible. You may easily remove knockout plugs with a nail punch, screwdriver or metal rod.

Drill a hole through the floor from bottom to top, as illustrated. Ensure the hole is drilled into the recessed area behind the wall rather than within the open. Ensure to make use of a bit that is large enough to permit free passage of the wiring cable.

Run the cable through the newly drilled hole to the desired location for the brand new receptacle or switch. Bring the cable through the opening by utilizing a weight on the tip of a string and a wire with a hook on the tip.

Using this same technique, you possibly can add one outlet to a different by drilling up through the floor, pulling the cable under the floor, and then running it to the desired position on the alternative wall. The identical wiring might be pulled through for either receptacles or switches.

If your house has an unfinished attic, it could also be easier to add new wiring by attaching it to boxes in the ceiling. In this manner, gravity works for you rather than against you. Attach the cable to the box as previously described.

Cut a hole within the wall at the specified location for the switch or receptacle, and run the cable from the box within the ceiling to the new outlet location. Bring the brand new cable through the wall and ceiling by cutting and drilling holes in and through the wall, the 2×4 plate, and the ceiling. A special fish tape is on the market for most of these jobs.

You can connect new cable from an existing outlet to a brand new outlet on the same wall by running it contained in the wall. Mark the approximate location of the new outlet. Using a stud finder locate and mark the wall studs. Start one stud before the prevailing outlet and end one stud after the brand new outlet. Mark the exact location of the brand new box. Make it the same height as the present box. Don’t locate it over a stud. Using a drywall or keyhole saw, cut the opening for the new box. Using a utility knife and a drywall saw, cut a strip of drywall about 3″ wide out of the wall, below the outlets. Start at the center of the primary stud you marked and end at the middle of the last stud; watch for nails as you cut. Carefully remove the drywall strip. Using a hand or circular saw, make two cuts 1″ apart and 3/4″ deep in each of the exposed studs. Using a hammer and a chisel, remove the wood between the two saw cuts.
Make certain the power is off to the present outlet. Remove the cover plate and the receptacle. Remove one of many knockouts in the bottom of the box. Run the brand new wire behind the wall and up through the knockout in the box. Tighten the clamp and attach the wires. If the box does not have a clamp, place a wire clamp on the new cable. Tighten the screw to carry the clamp on the wire. Be certain the nut is off the wire clamp and run the wire up to the box as before. Feed the threaded end of the clamp up through the knockout, replace the nut and tighten. Replace the receptacle and the cover plate. On the brand new box, remove one of many knockouts in the underside of the box. If the box you’re using is a self-clamping box, insert the box into the wall and tighten. If not, insert the box into the wall, insert a Madison hanger on each side of the box, and bend the tabs over into the box to tighten. Finish running the wire from the prevailing box through the notches and up behind the wall into the box as before. Clamp the wire and install the receptacle as within the figure. Install the cover plate, activate the ability, and test the circuit with a neon tester. Shut off the ability again to safely finish the project. Nail metal cable protectors to the exposed studs over the notches. Replace the drywall strip you removed earlier. Use the spackling compound and drywall tape to complete the installation. Cable could be pulled from an existing box on one wall to a brand new outlet on the alternative side of the identical wall.
Attach a cable to the present receptacle within the box as previously described. Allow ample slack within the cable to permit easy connection to the new box to be installed on the alternative wall. Bring the cable through the new opening with a wire, as illustrated in. Connect the cable to the brand new box, attach the specified receptacle, and mount the box to the wall with box supports if it isn’t near a stud.

– Two-Wire Cable
– Switches
– Screwdriver
– Extra-Long Bit
– Conduit
– Fish Tape
– Outlet Boxes
– Electrical Tape
– 1/4″ Drill
– Cable Connectors
– Pigtails
– Hand or Circular Saw
– Madison Hangers
– Drywall Tape
– Cable Protector Plates
– Switch Boxes
– Side Cutter Pliers
– Wire-nuts
– Chisel
– Drywall or Keyhole Saw
– Three-Wire Cable
– Receptacles
– Brace
– Ripping Bar
– Wire
– Neon Tester
– Stud Finder
– Hammer
– Spackling Compound

Check your state and native codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to make sure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer will be held answerable for damages or injuries resulting from using the information on this document.

touch on switch

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *