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The Care And Feeding Of Ponies
You discover you discover that your car’s battery dies in a day or two when you don’t drive the car, it may very well be that you’ve got an electrical draw somewhere that’s draining the battery. First, you’d want to search out out if this is definitely what’s happening. Start by charging the battery, and, with the positive battery cable connected and the negative battery cable disconnected, and take a volt meter and connect the positive probe of the volt meter to the negative battery cable and hook the negative probe of the volt meter to the negative battery post. With the doors of the car closed and the important thing in the ‘off’ position, the volt meter should read zero like that. If it it does indeed show zero like that, then you definitely would not have a draw, and the issue goes to be the battery itself. If the meter does show voltage like that, something is pulling power when it isn’t presupposed to. Fortunately, the list of suspects on a 65/66 Mustang is very short. You might have the horns, the headlight switch, the emergency flasher/ cigarette lighter circuit, the ignition switch, and, if in case you have a convertible with a power top, the highest switch. Also, the charging system has a wire that feeds into the new side of the starter solenoid, so that, when the car is running, everything electrical is running off of the alternator/ generator instead of the battery, and, the ammeter gauge/ charge indicator light has a wire attached to this same post on the starter solenoid.
None of these items is on a fuse within the fuse box, apart from the emergency flashers, so, don’t start pulling fuses one at a time and checking to see if the draw went away. Unless the issue is with the emergency flashers/ cigarette lighter circuit, which it almost never is, the problem will not go away like that. Start by unplugging the alternator harness from the headlight harness and see if the draw went away. It is the three-prong connector down near the frame rail, form of underneath where the battery is. If the draw went away, plug that back in and unplug the connector from the side of the voltage regulator. If the draw reappears, the problem is the alternator. Check and see if the black wire with the yellow stripe attached to the ‘bat’ post on the back of the alternator is shorting itself out on the alternator case somehow and, if yes, fix that. If it is not, then you definately need a new alternator. If the draw doesn’t reappear with the alternator harness plugged in and the voltage regulator unplugged, you need a brand new voltage regulator.
If the draw continues to be there if you unplug the alternator harness, then the problem is with one among the other systems mentioned, and, you’ll probably have to remove the instrument cluster to have a look back there. In the event you look in the april of 08 section here, there’s a post on how to try this. It isn’t difficult in any respect. Before you do that, though, go ahead and pull the emergency flasher fuse and see if the draw goes away. If no, go ahead and snatch the instrument cluster out. If yes, put the fuse back in and unplug the wire from the back of the cigarette lighter and see if the draw goes away. If yes, replace the lighter.
After you have the instrument cluster out, disconnect the headlight switch connector from the headlight switch and check to see if the draw went away. If no, the issue isn’t with the lights or the horns, because the horn circuit gets it is power from the headlight switch. That leaves the ignition switch. You’ll be able to check the wire that’s hooked to the + or ‘bat’ post on the coil with the volt meter to see if it shows power with the important thing in the off position, but, if it does, you might want to replace the ignition switch and you must remove the instrument cluster to do that, so, it wasn’t needless work removing the instrument cluster.
If the issue went away if you unplugged the headlight switch connector, plug the connector back in, and unplug the turn signal switch at the bottom of the steering column. If the draw goes away, the issue is something in the turn signal switch, more than likely the horns. If touch switch circuit using transistor the draw does not go away, unplug the connector behind the dash, form of up above the fuse box , that the taillight harness plugs into. If the draw does not go away, the problem pretty must be up front with the headlights or front parking lights/ turn signal lights. It is not complicated, it’s just a question of picking a spot to begin and dealing your way through until you find the issue. You don’t wish to fall into the trap that ensnares many, which is assuming that the issue is with component A and replacing it, only to find that the problem remains to be there, so that you then replace component B, C, D, etc… Don’t start just throwing new parts at the car until the issue disappears. Take a minute to figure out what’s actually wrong, after which fix that. You will be much happier with this fashion of doing things in the long run.
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