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TVR Sagaris Pages By Graham Varley, Speed Six
Fuse and relay panel; The control fuse and relay panel is located on the underside of the drivers foot well. Additional larger fuses are also on the wiring to the battery and alternator, and a loom mounted relay for the facility steering. The owners handbook doesn’t fully detail what all of the fuses are for. the extract from the manual is here:-
_Fuse 42 Fuse 16_
Alternator not charging battery; there isn’t any dash pod warning, so its a good suggestion to customise your display to indicate the battery charge level, if it drops below 11.9volts you’ve got about 15miles range without lights and air-con until it stops at 8volts. In case you are aware that that is the case and you want to drive the car to get to a garage; remove the facility steering relay or fuse 36, which will reduce the drain on the battery. The fuse is 100 amp strip type and under the air box on top of the starter motor, but worth changing it to 120Amp if it fails.
Battery dead; Main fuse in passenger foot well is 80 amp strip fuse behind the panel, its the black plastic rectangular fuse holder with black tape around it. The battery is an ‘036 round post’ on mine (with the +ve to the left of the car) and will be charged from underneath the car through the Anderson plug. When replacing the battery make sure you attach the positive first to avoid damaging the ECU. I’ve fitted a charging lead from the battery terminals into the passenger footwell for easy use of an airflow push touch light switch charger, which I use if the cars not moving for 3-4 weeks. I had a set of 25mm heavy duty charging leads made with the anderson plug fitted. You will get these from Steve Heath ready made up.
Battery Location; Battery box view internals
Front Headlamp -Inner Wheel arch access panels; N/S-Battery access, front lights; O/S-Front lights, indicator & nose loom connection. These are made from black gel coat fibre glass and fitted with sealant then screwed in position and under sealed over. I’ve removed all of the sealant added extra fixing screws and fitted with neoprene sponge seal, making an excellent seal and straightforward for future maintenance and a luvelly looking wheel arch with stainless screws in fact! I cleaned mine to seem like this.
Brake & reverse lights; If the brake lights usually are not working and the reverse light is, its more likely to be the switch on the pedal box unless both bulbs have fused. Check and replace the fuse, then try the brake lights first and keep them on for some time, if this is OK select reverse gear, if the fuse blows after which the brake lights do not work the reverse switch is faulty.
To vary the brake/rear indicator bulbs; remove the 2 screws on the highest of the trim rail that hold the luggage cover, and the securing screws under the carpet to govern the trim rail off, peel the carpet back and the bulb holders are there. The reverse and fog light are accessed via the tyre inflator stowage compartment and made by Hella.
Reverse switch (TVR Part) removal or adjustment is an enormous job; you get at it from the highest. Ideally take the boot luggage cover/roller blind by removing the four nuts with large washers on horizontal bit forward of rear wheel arch. Alternatively the console will be manipulated forward and sprung out with a little bit of force.
First remove the gear knob by turning the ferrule clockwise with rubber oil filter or jam jar lid removal strap tool, undo 19mm lock nut clockwise to remove gear knob. Remove the hand brake lever grip, sliding the leather back, use an allen key and slide off. Loosen the centre console two screws on the front. (manipulate forward or take the roller blind off as above ). Lift as much as reveal the sub-console, remove the three 10mm nuts underneath wrestle to get the console off selecting appropriate gear and handbrake position. Move the mirror ECU (part no.ME0846), the splice relay and the alarm sensors to 1 side, then remove the gaiter cover 6 screws, then the glued down gear stick gaiter to reveal the switch, then a use 24 and 22mm spanner to remove the switch. Careful not to wreck the loom wires to the switch.
Check the tightness of the gear stick while your there with an allen key (screw is on rear face) as they’ll come loose, and affect the reverse light correct operation. You might must rotate the gear keep on with get the brand new switch operating, but try it just a few times ensuring it only works in reverse and never 5th as well. To reassemble you will have some loctite PS 598 or similar to reseal to gaiter to the body, and a little bit of aluminium foil tape is helpful. If that is all a lot you’ll be able to disconnect the switch, by flicking the connector off from under the car, at least you should have the brake lights.
Check the boot to the gearbox is OK and without tears whilst its all apart; and consider making a heat sink barrier for the gearstick and insulate the gaiter with some foil fire blanket to cut back cockpit heat. I’ve also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat transfer to the cabin whilst changing the and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick out of a mat used for soldering.
If you’ve got got the gearbox out the reverse switch looks like this, however it can’t be set it up from underneath.
Front Lights; Main & Dip H7 Hella; N/S Accessed via wheel arch underside. Remove wheel for access. O/S possible access via service main bonnet to regulate alignment ,but for bulb change go via inner wheel arch access panel. Indicator on the O/S is accessed via the access panel. If lights flickering might be main fuse on way out.
Switches; The heater switch is here. The light switch is here. The window and door control is here.
Speedo Sensor Here we go
Speedo Sensor- Adjustment/Removal/replacement (sag v similar all T cars)
Part no. M1889
If replacement required use a dealer as they could have it done in a jiffy
To realize access to the Speedo Sensor the car ideally must be on a ramp. (jack possibly)
Remove the left NS rear wheel. to see the sensor
The sensor might be seen at the proper of the drive shaft, horizontal to the toothed diff output.
View from underneath the car, (exhausts removed on photo)
Clean with WD40 set to 1mm gap or less
The sensor is best left, complete on the bracket if removed.
View from rear
Alternatively, remove locknuts, follow the blue cable through to the rear inner wheel arch where it enters the body.
The hatch trim top rail after which the left NS trim panel must be removed.
Unplug within the inner wheel arch and prise out the wires and sheath from the connector block.
Pull the brand new sensor wire through, without cutting back the wire.
Remake the connector and re fit the sensor and bracket.
Alternatively cut off at 200mm long from plug then cut back new by 200mm and join with soldered heatshrink joint or sealed connector block.
Check with the ignition on the speedo needle reads zero.
If the needle requires adjustment, select factory settings on POD menu 8; select the mph zero and adjust up or down until the needle is ready and save the changes.
Fault Finding: Most electrical faults , not working are because of bad connections within the plugs or to the chassis. There are few earth points, one on right side front by the engine mount, chassis to engine, passenger footwell, battery box, then the main one if the lights flicker after checking the 80 & 100amp fuse is the chassis ground at right front just below the steel radiator pipe. Remove these wire wool clean and assemble with a contact grease.
Engine wiring loom- Plugs
Following an unsolved oil temp sensor fault, within the strategy of rectifying, recorded the wire colours etc which is within the manual.
The wiring harness/looms are manufactured by Associated Bonded Cables Ltd. There are several sections, some plug/socket on the bulkheads.
Main Engine Bulkhead Plug all of the wire ID’s are within the manual
Small auxiliary plug on the engine bulkhead- Only connects the Lambdas on the Sagaris and may foul with the airbox etc.
Nose wiring Loom; The loom for the front of the car part no M1798 comes through a plug connection on the bulkhead wall within the footwell accessed through the O/S inner wheel arch access panel. The loom has the connector for front fog lights which is fully operational and taped up, their can be on the o/s light side a permanent live supply taped back to the loom. My loom had worn through where the it rests on the fibre glass inner wheel arch; I’ve since repaired it and covered with a plastic armour sheath to stop abrasion.
Window Electrics; The push buttons can some times stick; you can get at the passenger side if you are taking the glove box out. The drivers side is harder because the stereo housing needs to return out then, undo three small nylocs on the back and the remove the ribbon cable.
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